Much like a spot before prom night, the teen skincare craze has erupted, inundating the beauty industry with a whirlwind of products and routines aimed at tackling everything from acne to those transformative teenage glow-ups. In the UK alone a report from The Insights People indicates that children aged 10 to 18 spend approximately £709 million annually on toiletries and cosmetics.
And yet many parents find themselves oddly troubled by the trend, myself included. Aside from the fact that active ingredients like vitamin C and retinol can be too harsh for young skin – there’s something more sinister going on. Unlike makeup, which can be a canvas for creativity and self-expression, skincare has become an obsession with perfection. The pressure to achieve flawless skin is overwhelming, and the irony is stark: the 'perfect' skin we now idolise is one that mirrors a baby-faced, glowingly youthful 14-year-old that's face is untouched by dark circles or crow's feet.
And their skincare barrier isn’t all that’s at risk. ‘The trend for young girls using adult-targeted anti-ageing skincare can breed premature appearance anxiety, which can negatively impact their self-esteem – both now and in the future,’ Phillippa Diedrichs, a professor of psychology and body image at University of the West of England Bristol, explains. She believes this is compounded by social media content that encourages multi-step regimes is opening the door to ‘a toxic culture of unrealistic beauty standards and pressures.'
The social media problem
Social media is, in part, the reason as to how we got here in the first place. ‘Parents allowing their young children on social media despite the age restrictions – either because children bypass the simple vetting process or parents sign up for them – leads to a feed that’s consistently inappropriate for their real age,’ reveals Jessica Chalmers, an online safety expert who runs Internet safety workshops for parents, schools, businesses and charities.
If an eight-year-old receives content that assumes they're 13', she explains, 'when they actually turn 13, it assumes they're 18. Increasingly sophisticated algorithms feed this exposure, serving users recommendations and influencer skincare routines after just a few searches on the topic. All that social media time is, in turn, exposing these young users to older influencers who are paid by brands to use and promote their skincare products.'
So, how best to navigate the minefield that is social media for children? Chalmers has this advice: ‘Create a social media contract with your child so that you can both agree on how much screen time they’re allowed and you can control and filter the settings.’ Conversation is key, she emphases, so approach their online lives with curiosity, even if what you’re really feeling is concern. ‘Ask them what makes them laugh, what they see that they like. That way, if they are seeing content that makes them feels uncomfortable or that they don’t understand, they’re much more likely to tell you. She also recommends teaching them how to take screen shots, as well as muting, blocking and hiding accounts that don’t make the feel good.
Why teen skincare should be kept simple
What do insiders have to say about parents who are worried about the increased pressures piled onto young teens regarding perfect skin? Shai Eisenman, founder of the lauded Gen-Z skincare brand Bubble, believes that there are steps you can take to ensure the young people in your life are engaging with skincare in a that supports their health, rather than posing a threat to it.
'It’s not just about clear skin, it’s about confidence,' she says. 'When teens feel good in their skin, it impacts how they show up in the world. Encouraging them to find a routine that works and stick with it, is more helpful than micromanaging every pimple.'
Experts including Dr Sophie Shotter agree: 'I'm pro having a good skincare routine and if you can get your teenager to into one just before they start puberty then brilliant,' adding that while she isn’t ‘anti’ teenage skincare, she's against the use of actives that they simply don’t need.
As someone who has a brand that is front and centre of teen skincare, what does Eisenman think that people get wrong about conversations around teen skincare? 'People tend to overcomplicate young skincare,' she says. 'They think more products mean better skin, or they treat it the same as adult skincare, which just doesn’t work. Teen skin is going through a lot – hormonal changes, oil production, breakouts – so it needs a routine that’s effective but gentle.'
Another myth that Eisenman would like to disappear is assuming breakouts mean bad hygiene. 'Acne isn’t about washing your face more; it’s about using the right ingredients in the right way, and not about over stripping your skin.'
As for what she wishes parents knew about teen skincare? 'First, sunscreen is the most important part of your routine and should be used daily.'
Eisenman also champions the idea that simplicity is best. 'When a teen has breakouts, the instinct is to go all in with harsh cleansers, strong treatments and tons of products, but that usually makes things worse,' she schools. 'Skincare is about balance, not stripping the skin. Encouraging them to find a routine that works and stick with it is way more helpful than micromanaging every pimple.'
While she's adamant that teen skincare needs to be simple, there are benefits of tweens starting a skincare regimen. 'It’s all about creating good habits early. If tweens learn to take care of their skin in a way that’s simple and effective, they won’t have to undo years of bad habits later. It’s not about using a ton of products—it’s just about knowing the basics: cleanse, moisturise, and protect with sunscreen. Plus, making skincare feel like self-care instead of a chore helps them build confidence in their skin from an early age.'
Consultant dermatologist and founder of Self, Dr Anjali Mahto agrees. 'Helping children develop good skincare habits is important, but it's crucial to keep the routine simple and age-appropriate. Here are the practical tips she recommends for teenage skin.
The 2 teen skincare fundamentals
1. Cleanse
'Encourage children to wash their face twice a day with a gentle, non-comedogenic cleanser to remove dirt and oil without stripping their skin of natural moisture. CeraVe Hydrating Cleanser, is a good option for normal skin. For those with oily or acne-prone skin, cleansers with either salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide can help unclog pores and reduce the amount of Cutibacterium acnes (the bacteria responsible for spots). Try Acnecide 5% benzoyl peroxide wash.'
2. Protect
'Teach them the importance of wearing sunscreen daily, even on cloudy days, to protect against UV damage. Choose a broad-spectrum sunscreen with at least SPF 30 that is suitable for children's sensitive skin. The best SPF will be one they want to use, so finding one with a good formula is key to ensure patient compliance. I’ve recommended the Eucerin Sun Oil Control Sun Cream SPF50+, £19 to a few teenagers because it sinks in quickly.
'Remind them not to touch their face frequently and to avoid picking at their skin; this can spread bacteria and cause irritation, or in some cases, scarring. If your teenager is experiencing any sort of condition – acne, for example – it’s worth seeking an appointment with an dermatologist as soon as you can in order to manage and treat it before it gets worse.'
More teen stories this way:
Inside the prejuvenation movement: Why Gen Z is saying "yes" to Botox and plastic surger
Teens with 'problematic smartphone use' are twice as likely to have anxiety, new studies show
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